阿明的部落國

愛搭不時尚 亂畫 愛手作家人的幸福咖啡館
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2016年10月2日 星期日

Sew Retro #1 ~ Butterick Patterns B6167 復古阿明做洋裝 #1





Sew Retro
Butterick B6167


After I took about 5 classes of "sewing 101" at my local fabric store
and some practicing on doll patterns 
 with all of those past years of sewing experience
I am ready to make my very first dress 

經過了5堂的基本裁縫課練習
和過去在網路上下載許多娃娃衣服版型的裁縫經驗後
我決定要為自己做一件洋裝

 
Butterick B6167


I have been loving all the Butterick's Retro collection patterns for a long time
so I picked the B6167 patterns as my first start

從不久以前
就ㄧ直很想試試看 Butterick 出的一系列復古洋裝裁縫版型
這一系列的服裝版型
都是仿照1940's - 1950's fashion style 而設計的
喜歡40's和50's fashion的我
 當然不想錯過


 





as a home sewer
any commercial patterns are big challenge to me

對一個在家自學裁縫的人
對於了解如何把版型剪下 試衣 裁縫
真的是一項非常大的挑戰



I have learned in the past 
the most important thing in sewing is;
Be Patient ~ Be Patient ~ Be Patient 

從過去的裁縫經驗中 
我學到的心得就是要有耐心
除了耐心 還是耐心
沒有不二法門

and because patience is the most important thing when it comes to sewing
I have been very careful to go through each step

也因為這樣  我對這次的任何裁縫步驟
每一項都是緩慢的進行 
包括剪版型
也是以龜速緩緩地前進~ 呵呵



I also used muslin for the fitting

避免中間步驟出太多錯誤
我先裁了muline 來做練習和試size




according the size chart
I should be a size10
but since it was my first time to make a "real" dress
to be extra careful
 I sized up my cup size - A/B Cup to the C cup
and also sized up the pattern size from size10 to size12

依照說明書上的size
我的身型應該要裁10號的版型   但是我裁了大一號的12號版型
原本的A/B Cup 也裁了 C Cup
 只因為太小心和害怕在過程中出差錯 
( 看本人有多怕出錯就好 )



I also added the strip under the bust area just as a personal preference

在胸圍下方
我自己多加了說明書上沒有的"胸腺"
因為自己喜歡這樣的設計
( 個人很任性來著 )



 for the shirred bust
I was using a C cup pattern instead of my real cup size
so I inserted elastic between the seam allowance on the top
just for easy adjustment of the bust piece and to match the lower bodice piece 

因為 C cup 胸圍布料很多
所以我在裡面多加了鬆緊帶來拉出皺褶
也方便我和下方的布在接縫時可以做平衡



I also skipped the boning part
simply because I want my dress to be worn as a daily dress.

說明書上建議放骨架
但我覺得這樣穿起來顯得有些太過正式 所以沒有放



Thanks to my Hubby; he gave me a new sewing machine for my birthday 
that's the main reason I gained more confidence and believed in myself so that I could make my own garment just like everybody else

對於這次終於能有自信地完成一件洋裝
完全要歸功於藏鏡人在我生日那天送我的新裁縫機


demonstrating the Narrow Hem foot 
 

It took me about 3 weeks to finish this dress
and I'm quite happy with the result

Here it's my new baby girl!
TADA!!

這次總共花了三個星期多的時間
才完成這件洋裝 
對於成果 大致算滿意
( 本人對自己要求極度龜毛 )

不過當然還是很開心 因為我終於完成她了!!
將將!!!



instead of cutting 3 skirt pieces as the instructions suggest
I cut out 2 more skirt pieces to create more volume

裙子下擺的地方
因為自己喜歡澎澎的感覺
所以我多加了兩片的裙子布



after trying on the dress
I did notice the bust size area is a little bit "roomy" on me
so I do think I will make some adjustment on next attempt or go down on one size

胸圍的地方
對我來說還是有點大
不過這算是我一次的學習
希望下次會會拿捏得好一點~




 after struggling many times with putting the pieces on myself and having myself become a pin cushion
my dear Hubby decided it's time to get me a good and nice professional dress form

as you all know
when it comes any professional dress form the price can really drop your jaw
 so after many hours of research
I finally settled on ordering from a company called Only Mannequins® Outlet on Amazon.com 
 because it has the best professional dress form price I could find 

在縫製洋裝的過程中
因為要試衣的關係 我的身體自然而然地變成一個活動大針包
好心的藏鏡人決定幫我買一個專業的dress form
因為dress form的價錢可以貴到令人下巴掉下來的地步 
身為買買達人和小氣達人
用理想的金錢額度買下附和自己需求的東西
花時間做搜尋是必須的

最後我在 Amazon買下了不僅初學者可以負擔
還兼任許多功能性的dress form

 


說句實話
我還滿訝異竟然可以在Amazon找到價錢好 
質感又好的dress form :)

Collapsible Shoulder 可調整肩膀


finally finished - the zipper part
( although I do need to practice more with the invisible zipper )

收到了dress form後
對於縫隱藏拉鍊的部分也方便了許多
( 雖說對於這個部分 我還要多加練習 )


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 Dress ~ Handmade By Me
Cardigan ~ Doll Me up
Bag ~ Vintage


 DollMeUp Cardigan


很難得拍出的吸空氣花癡照
和本人真實個性差很多 哈~


http://www.dollmeupdarling.com/


I have to say
this flower pattern shows its own beauty on the camera very well



雖然有很多部分還需要加強
但是我發現這件洋裝穿起來還挺上鏡的
真是讓人想要灑花+轉圈圈阿~~~ 哈哈~~~~ 



好開心終於可以自己完成一件洋裝
網路上賣的復古洋裝
不管新舊 價格都不是隨便就負擔得起的
但是因為自己對於舊時代洋裝的剪裁有許多迷戀
所以決定自己動手裁 

雖然過程很辛苦
但是在製作的過程中可以學到許多以前自己沒學過的技巧
真的是很令人開心的一件事 呵呵~





Happy Sewing!



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