丁墨爺空間: 2016.10

Sew Retro
Butterick B6167

After I took about 5 classes of "sewing 101" at my local fabric store

and some practicing on doll patterns
with all of those past years of sewing experience
I am ready to make my very first dress

經過了5堂的基本裁縫課練習
和過去在網路上下載許多娃娃衣服版型的裁縫經驗後

我決定要為自己做一件洋裝

Butterick B6167

I have been loving all the Butterick's Retro collection patterns for a long time
so I picked the B6167 patterns as my first start

從不久以前
就ㄧ直很想試試看 Butterick 出的一系列復古洋裝裁縫版型
這一系列的服裝版型
都是仿照1940's - 1950's fashion style 而設計的
喜歡40's和50's fashion的我
當然不想錯過

as a home sewer

any commercial patterns are big challenge to me

對一個在家自學裁縫的人
對於了解如何把版型剪下試衣裁縫
真的是一項非常大的挑戰

I have learned in the past
the most important thing in sewing is;
Be Patient ~ Be Patient ~ Be Patient

從過去的裁縫經驗中
我學到的心得就是要有耐心
除了耐心還是耐心
沒有不二法門

and because patience is the most important thing when it comes to sewing

I have been very careful to go through each step

也因為這樣我對這次的任何裁縫步驟
每一項都是緩慢的進行
包括剪版型
也是以龜速緩緩地前進~ 呵呵

I also used muslin for the fitting

避免中間步驟出太多錯誤
我先裁了muline 來做練習和試size

according the size chart
I should be a size10
but since it was my first time to make a "real" dress
to be extra careful
I sized up my cup size - A/B Cup to the C cup
and also sized up the pattern size from size10 to size12

依照說明書上的size
我的身型應該要裁10號的版型但是我裁了大一號的12號版型
原本的A/B Cup 也裁了 C Cup
只因為太小心和害怕在過程中出差錯
( 看本人有多怕出錯就好 )

I also added the strip under the bust area just as a personal preference

在胸圍下方
我自己多加了說明書上沒有的"胸腺"
因為自己喜歡這樣的設計
( 個人很任性來著 )

for the shirred bust
I was using a C cup pattern instead of my real cup size
so I inserted elastic between the seam allowance on the top
just for easy adjustment of the bust piece and to match the lower bodice piece

因為 C cup 胸圍布料很多
所以我在裡面多加了鬆緊帶來拉出皺褶
也方便我和下方的布在接縫時可以做平衡

I also skipped the boning part
simply because I want my dress to be worn as a daily dress.

說明書上建議放骨架
但我覺得這樣穿起來顯得有些太過正式所以沒有放

Thanks to my Hubby; he gave me a new sewing machine for my birthday
that's the main reason I gained more confidence and believed in myself so that I could make my own garment just like everybody else

對於這次終於能有自信地完成一件洋裝
完全要歸功於藏鏡人在我生日那天送我的新裁縫機

demonstrating the Narrow Hem foot

It took me about 3 weeks to finish this dress
and I'm quite happy with the result

Here it's my new baby girl!
TADA!!

這次總共花了三個星期多的時間
才完成這件洋裝
對於成果大致算滿意
( 本人對自己要求極度龜毛 )

不過當然還是很開心因為我終於完成她了!!
將將!!!

instead of cutting 3 skirt pieces as the instructions suggest
I cut out 2 more skirt pieces to create more volume

裙子下擺的地方
因為自己喜歡澎澎的感覺
所以我多加了兩片的裙子布

after trying on the dress
I did notice the bust size area is a little bit "roomy" on me
so I do think I will make some adjustment on next attempt or go down on one size

胸圍的地方
對我來說還是有點大
不過這算是我一次的學習
希望下次會會拿捏得好一點~

after struggling many times with putting the pieces on myself and having myself become a pin cushion

my dear Hubby decided it's time to get me a good and nice professional dress form

as you all know
when it comes any professional dress form the price can really drop your jaw
so after many hours of research
I finally settled on ordering from a company called Only Mannequins® Outlet on Amazon.com
because it has the best professional dress form price I could find

在縫製洋裝的過程中
因為要試衣的關係我的身體自然而然地變成一個活動大針包
好心的藏鏡人決定幫我買一個專業的dress form
因為dress form的價錢可以貴到令人下巴掉下來的地步
身為買買達人和小氣達人
用理想的金錢額度買下附和自己需求的東西
花時間做搜尋是必須的

最後我在 Amazon買下了不僅初學者可以負擔
還兼任許多功能性的dress form

說句實話
我還滿訝異竟然可以在Amazon找到價錢好
質感又好的dress form :)

Collapsible Shoulder 可調整肩膀

finally finished - the zipper part
( although I do need to practice more with the invisible zipper )

收到了dress form後
對於縫隱藏拉鍊的部分也方便了許多
( 雖說對於這個部分我還要多加練習 )